Position gasspjæld føler

[lars_buch]

Hej Alle i Saab freaks
Jeg var ude for at åbne motorhjælmen idag da min 9000 gik lidt mærkeligt.
Jeg konstateret at føler til gasspjæld var gået løs.
Hvordan stiller jeg den helt korrekt da jeg ikke kan se hvor den sad før.

// Lars

[Kaas]

Hej Lars, ja den er triky Jeg har lige gjort det samme på min 900! Det er noget med micro volt som du skal måle ud. Jeg skal lige prøve om jeg kan finde en guide!

[Kaas]

Jeg fandt dette ..

5. Check the throttle position sensor, and others

If the ECU doesn't realise the throttle is closed, it won't start controlling the idle. So correct setting of the throttle position sensor, either switches (Bosch LH2.2. and 2.4) or potentiometer (Lucas and Bosch 2.4.2) is essential. The instructions for the Lucas system are:-
a) Connect a voltmeter between terminal 2 and 3 on the throttle pot.
b) Slacken the screws securing the throttle pot to the inlet manifold.
c) Turn on the Ignition, and rotate the throttle pot so that the reading on the voltmeter is maximum of 400 mV,or 0,4 Volts. If this is not possible, you might need to enlarge the holes (for screws) on the T. pot.
d) Retighten the securing screws.
Note that the voltmeter should read between 4.2 and 4.9 volt at full throttle.

The Bosch settings for idle switches (LH2.2 and 2.4) are in the Bentley manual. The idle switch (pins 1&2) should open as the throttle just comes off idle. The full throttle switch (pins 2&3) should close at 72 degrees of opening. Bentley notes that the switch assembly, if wrongly adjusted, can hold the throttle open. For Bosch LH 2.4.2, the potentiometer, pins 2&3, should give 0.25volts at idle and 4.0volts at full throttle. The ECU also checks road speed before running the AIC, there's a sensor in the speedometer. On Lucas jack up one front wheel and spin it, you can then measure a signal at pin 6 of the ECU that varies between 0.5 and 5.0volts. On automatic cars the ECU also detects when you move to D or R. If you have air con the Bosch system detects whether it's on.

6. Cleaning done, Now set the idle speed

If you've cleaned the throttle body and AIC out you will probably need to set the idle speed back down, as some previous owner has been winding it up. The method varies a bit depending on fuel system.

Idle speed has to be set with the engine at normal operating temperature. If the thermostat's bad and the engines not reaching normal temperature expect idle problems until you've replaced the thermostat. The ECU detects engine temperature with a sensor in the flange of the inlet manifold, check the resistance of this NTC sensor at normal engine temperature, it should be 320ohms for Bosch and 270 to 390ohms for Lucas. Engine cold about 2500ohms.

Basic setting of throttle butterfly; Undo the lock nut, slacken the tiny stop screw, wind it in until it just touches the lever, then wind a further 1/3 turn. Lock it. This should set a clearance of .002" between butterfly and body.

Setting base idle speed if no AIC. Adjust with the bolt poking out of the throttle body, which controls a throttle bypass passage.

Setting base idle on Bosch system with AIC. This requires a dwell angle meter; details are in the Bentley manual. If anyone has a simpler way let us know. You might try isolating the AIC pipes and setting it to 650rpm as below. This leaves the AIC just open (to give the other 200 rpm) at normal engine temp and load.

Setting base idle speed on Lucas CU14 (thanks to Sturla)

a) Warm engine and let it run at idle speed, block both air hoses fitted to the AIC-valve
b) Adjust throttle angle/speed (by loosening the 8mm nut) the turn the throttle stop screw clockwise until idle speed is approx. 600-650 RPM
c) Stop engine and remove clamps on the AIC valve.

7. What about the throttle dashpot?

If you have a dashpot which slows the closing of the throttle set it as follows:-
As for the almost stalling when you let off the gas: I have just recently come across that problem myself. There is a small diaphragm-like actuator that touches the throttle linkage called the deceleration dashpot. The purpose of this is to allow the rpm of the engine to come down before slamming the throttle plate shut and causing that "near stalling behavior." Once the engine has settled, the throttle will then fully close. If you twist the throttle with your hand then let it spring back, you should see this actuator stop it just before the idle screw and hold it for a second or two. If it doesn't hold it, it could either be 1.) Ruptured and in need of replacement or 2.) Out of adjustment. The way to adjust it is to adjust it in or out until when you let go of the throttle just as described above, there is a 2-3 second delay before the throttle completely closes. It is some times hard to see such little movement to make sure its working so try listening closely and you will hear the throttle positioning sensor click 2-3 seconds after releasing the throttle. This all of course while the car is not running.

8. What if you have the auxiliary air valve rather than an AIC?

If there is no AIC, an auxiliary air valve connected to hoses across the throttle body provides a controlled higher idle speed during warm up. The valve is a plate that moves as the bimetal strip in the long part of the body is electrically heated. So gives more air on cold start and, with some regard to ambient temps, drops it off over a few minutes the book gives the numbers for the aux. air valves on the LH2.2 system.
-153 automatic turbo
-107 manual turbo and I
-122 auto I
Suspect the auto ones gives higher cold idle.

A basic test for the Auxiliary Air Valve is to remove the top hose on the Auxiliary Air Valve and shine a flashlight in it to check that it is open with the engine cold. Then do the same when the engine is warm to check that the Auxiliary Air Valve is closed.

If you have too slow an idle during cold start then:- The answer is to adjust the amount that the AIC allows in when cold. If you remove the AIC you will see a tiny nut on it which, in some cases is painted yellow (6mm or 7mm spanner will be needed to undo it). Once the nut is undone you can move it about a small amount. I can't remember which way you need to move it, but try different positions. Obviously tighten the nut. Start the car and see how much the idle has changed. (Credits to Alan B)

The valve winding should have a resistance of 40 to 60 ohms.

9. Finally the O2 sensor

If you've done all of the above, you may still be left with a slightly varying idle (say 50rpm swing). This is probably due to the O2 sensor. Varying idle is one of the early signs of a tired O2 sensor, but change it after all of the above have been ruled out. At idle the ECU swings the mixture back and fore between slightly rich and slightly lean, searching for the spot on mixture. Connect a digital multimeter to the volts out of the O2 sensor you'll see the idle speed changes in time with the mixture variation. Bad O2 sensors are slow to respond so the mixture swings more and there is more idle variation. One of the indicators of O2 sensor condition is the number of swings the system can achieve in a given time (zero crossings) but I've no idea what an acceptable value is.
http://www.saabcentral.com/techhelp/c90 ... oblems.php

Det er godt til en 900, men jeg tænker det er det samme til din 9000, ellers prøv at søg her....
http://www.saabcentral.com/techhelp/9000_index.php

[saabbat]

Hej Lars

Du har rekorden for det længste indlæg og så på udenlandsk.

Haynes har også et fint afsnit om gasspjældsensor.

Mvh

Bjarne

Ps. jeg har bestilt de motorophæng hos Parts for saab - så nu går jeg og venter.

[lars_buch]

Hej Kaas og Bjarne
Jeg må sige jeg havde håbet at få et svar, men så udførligt det er bare fedt. Nu må jeg se om jeg kan få mit multimeter til at virke og hakke mig igennem det der "uenlanske" mærkelige volapyk

Kaas endnu en gang tak ps. hvor har du det fra?

// Lars

[Kaas]

Hej Lars.
www.saabcentral.com
Der er et teknisk indlæg, hvor der står en masse godter Der er også et forum, som selvfølgelig er på engelsk, der bruger Daniel og jeg en del tid.

[Saab-daniel]

nemli ja